Walls of Jerusalem 2018

Walls of Jerusalem 2018

This adventure started almost 8 months earlier when Erica started planning my surprise birthday hiking adventure. We snagged super cheap flights from Brisbane to Launceston and a quick trip turned into four days in Walls of Jerusalem followed by six days on the Overland Track.

Monday 05 Feb

Our first day started off with a hearty brekky at Great Scot before taking our hire car for a spin out to Mole Creek caves. We took the Great Cathedral tour through Marakoopa Cave and were blown away by the crystalline structures. In the main cavern the cave ceiling looked like the night sky illuminated by the green glow of glow worms trying to attract some prey.

 A further 45 min drive down dirt roads had us taking a break for lunch on the banks of the Rowallan Dam. We already started our hiking style lunches with tuna and noodles. I would have preferred a feast of rainbow trout that you could catch in the dam but never brought my fishing gear.

The Walls of Jerusalem carpark was another 15 mins away and we were surprised to find it almost full on a week day. Car locked and packs on we took a trail we thought lead to the main trail head but 10mins later we found ourselves lost, bush bashing our way back to the carpark. The actual trailhead is opposite the carpark entrance where you will find yourself on a small well-defined trail tackling the instant incline to the registration booth. This area of Tassie forms part of the world heritage listed national park area so make sure you follow the rules and sanitise your shoes to stop the spread of bacteria. 

Be sure to you look up while you battle the steep incline towards Old Trappers Hut because you find yourself surrounded by the silver and greys of old eucalypts. Ferns and shoulder high scrub also form part of the old growth forest views. After learning about the origin and history of Old Trappers Hut the trail opens up to reveal Solomons Jewels.

Small wooden platforms protect the ground coverage and Clumner Bluff dominates the views to your left as you follow the trail to Wild Dog Creek campsite. Solomons Jewels is a serene place to catch your breath. The sun reflects off the various interconnected pools surrounded by Tussock grass, Snow grass and cushion plants.

Roughly 1.5km past the jewels you will find the camping area. Eight elevated platforms and a commercial campsite service the area with water plumbed down to all levels, there was even a composting toilet much to Erica’s delight.

As the camp area was super busy we setup on the grass next to a platform. I found it ironic as I am all about conservation and find myself not using the platforms designed to protect the environment (not by choice). All set up we now had the time to relax with a cuppa tea. The warmth of the day began to fade and I took the opportunity to write about the day’s events in my travel journal to later form the basis of this blog.

As the sun set over Howells Bluff I cooked up a Beef and Pasta Hotpot dehydrated meal. By 2130 the sky was still alight by the remnants of the suns presence. All tucked into our sleeping bags, we could see the moons glow through the tents fly. Around midnight the rustling sounds of possums woke me up as they searched around tents and in packs for food, luckily we decided to sleep with ours in the tent.

Tuesday 06 Feb

With a busy day planned we were awake at 0630 had a feed of oats and granola followed by a cup of coffee. The first people awake and fed we were on the trail by 0800. Heading south a 150m elevation gain awaited us before walking through Herods gate and into the valley between the walls. King Davids Peak looms over you giving us the first look along the West Wall area of the park. As the sun rose lake Salome put on a show making the Vale of Bethesda come to life.

Today’s plan was to summit Solomons Throne, King Davids Peak and the Temple. Before the climb we followed a must-see lead and went to check out the Pool of Bethesda. This beautiful pool surrounded by gnarly old pine trees and eucalypts is located at the base of the Temple in the Gate of Chain. An awesome spot to take a couple of pics for the gram because the Temple makes a beautiful backdrop for this alpine lake.

A double plank boardwalk leads you through Damascus Gate where you find the junction for both Solomons Throne and the Temple. Natural stone steps lead to more of a rock scramble leading the way through the entrance to the throne. When you finally emerge and mount the summit, you get views of the East Wall, the Temple and Zion hill. Breaking for smoko allowed us to soak in the views including towards the south along the Wailing Wall and Mount Moriah.

<  Through the Throne            Stone Steps Up Solomons Throne  >

Feeling energised we took off on the two-hour rock hopping/scrambling journey along the West Wall leading to the highest peak in the park, King Davids Peak. I recommend you wear long pants as the native shrubs really tear your skin up and take extra care as the 200m fall would probably end your trip prematurely. The trail is not very well marked but you can find your way following rock cairns or follow a trusty compass bearing.

<  King Davids Peak

Rock Field  >

The vast views from King Davids Peak encompass the Cradle Mountain/Lake Saint Claire wilderness area as well as Clumner Bluff and the rest of the Walls of Jerusalem. We could map out our next adventure on the Overland Track including Cradle Mountain while we ate our noodles and tuna for lunch.

West Wall  >

<  Solomons Throne

We were back down in the saddle of Damascus Gate by 1330 and heading up the stone steps to the Temple. A quick 30min jaunt has you looking backing at the West Wall. The summit marked by a large cairn offers great views over Zion Hill, Mt Ophel, Ephraims Gate and the Gate of Chain. The southern tip of the Temple has you looking over Dixons Kingdom hut camp area out to Lake Ball.

           On Top of The Temple  >

Heading back the same way we followed in today had us arriving at camp around 1600. After moving our tent to a more suitable platform a feast of lollies and a cuppa was in order. I caught a few chapters in my book “The Silmarillion” while the sun set.

N.B. you get phone reception on the Throne.

Wednesday 07 Feb

Rise and shine it’s 3am! Leaving Erica in the tent I really wanted to catch a sunrise and Solomons Throne was calling my name. After a horrible sleep and discovering it was around 4 degrees, I wasn’t sure if the trip would be worth it until I came upon Herrods Gate. Try to imagine standing hidden in the scrub looking up. Framed between the silhouette of two peaks the Milky Way shines bright and trail is made visible by the moon luminous glow. On approach I was awe struck and spent the next 15mins trying and failing to get the perfect picture.

That view was just the beginning. When I entered the valley, I found the place alive. Moving along the boardwalk three different types of wallaby could be seen foraging in the low ground cover. After 45mins I had reached the junction for Solomons Throne. The wind really starts to pick up as you make your way through the entrance to the throne. On the summit around 4am it was roughly six degrees with the wind chill bringing it down to what felt like minus 10 degrees.

<  Bennetts Wallaby

Wrapped in my blanket  >

Trying to find the perfect wind break in the rocks had me chilled to the core shivering uncontrollably. Being an uncertified genius, I decided to try and use my eBay special emergency blanket to keep warm. I had used it as a ground sheet while camping in waist deep snow at Marmot Pass in Washington State USA and it worked great. However, between the rocks and the wind on Solomons Throne the blanket kept tearing and I had lost two very large strips by first light at 0500. The actual sunrise began at 0615 so I was awake about 1.5hrs too early.

<   First Light

When the sun finally broke the horizon, the sky was set ablaze with yellows, golds and crimsons. I took a time lapse which only captured a sample of the beauty as the sun rose over the East Wall and Mt Jerusalem. The early golden light shone off hidden lakes ranging as far as the eye could see. 

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Blankets of cloud rolled through the valleys and the wind stirred them up before mixing into a huge pool like a fairy floss maker.

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I snapped a great photo of the sun rising between the two pillars of rock that form the entrance to Solomons Throne.

After basking in the sunset for an hour I contemplated climbing down and heading to camp for a nap, but Wailing Wall was speaking to me as I looked out toward Mt Moriah. Not wanting to waste a great opportunity I started to follow along the cliffs edge parallel to the Damascus Vale. It was a fairly easy journey rock hopping along the Wailing Wall, but the entire journey is off trail, so you should know how to use a map and compass.

The early morning light revealed the most beautiful hanging lakes hidden along the ridge line.

A quick climb up Mt Moriah had me looking back towards the centre of the walls. Solomons Throne to the left forming the Damascus Gate with the Temple and to the right Mt Jerusalem forms the Jaffa Gate. South through Jaffa Vale, Lake Ball dominates the views and further south the rest of the Walls of Jerusalem National Park with all its lakes glinting in the sunrise.

Retracing my steps back to Solomons Throne should have been easy except it was ALL uphill. It was very easy to lose the way as the Throne remained hidden under the horizon, so my compass came in handy. By 0930 I was back at camp for brekky completely starving.

After some oats and coffee, I managed and hour kip before breaking camp to head up to Dixon’s Kingdom Hut camp area. Fully loaded it took roughly an hour forty to reach camp where we set up under the cover of the oldest natural pine forest in the world. Dixons Kingdom doesn’t have platforms or a water supply, but they still offer composting toilets.

<   Sign at Dixons Kingdom

Having a relaxing day, lunch was in order before reading for a couple of hours. Still tired we took a nap where I slept for way too long and woke up in time for dinner. We planned to watch the sunset on Mt Jerusalem, so we had to haul ass. We got to the summit in 35mins just as the sun hit the clouds over the West Wall. We passed more hanging lakes on the climb which also offered a great opportunity to refill our water bottles.

Atop of Mt Jerusalem the sunset proved to be more spectacular than the sunrise. The blue silhouettes of the mountains set against the striking red of the sunset and the pink hues of the clouds. You could quite easily get lost in the beauty of the sky. Once the sun had fully retreated below the horizon the sky turned a light shade of blue before darkening and allowing the stars to shine.

We made our descent with the aid of headlamps and at times found it difficult to keep sight of the trail. Everything was travelling well until roughly 300m before camp where Erica lightly sprained her ankle. Feeling a little tender, we made it back to camp and straight to bed.

Thursday 08 Feb

Waking up after what felt like a sleepless (probably due to the long nap) the soothing sound of rain only dampened my mood further. I don’t mind hiking in the rain, but I hate packing up a wet tent. As rain tends to slow everything down we left an hour after our ETD. 

Donning our wet weather gear, we made our own trail through the forest following a bearing of 205 as this was an unchartered/unmaintained trail down to Lake Ball. The density of the forest is quite surprising and it forces you to use your compass to stay on track. Using best practise of regularly checking the compass bearing we eventually made it to the shore of Lake Ball. Finding the trail, we followed it around the edge of the lake looking for Lake Ball Hut. 

<   Looking for the Lake                                       Lake Ball Hut   >

<    Fresh Rock Slides making the trail difficult to pass at times.

I marked this part of the trail as difficult because at times you must tackle stretches of trail where recent rock slides have occurred. Coupled with the moistness of the rocks and fresh mud make sure you tread carefully. One small slip would send you into the drink after probably breaking a bone or two.

Erica and I stopped for Lunch   >

The trail difficulty lessens after the long steep descent through eucalypt forest to Lake Adelaide. We decided to stop for a quick break and have a feed eating almost the last of the supplies we brought for this segment of the trip. Make sure you know how to use your map!! We ran into a French lady on the trail around Lake Ball and later saw her again at Lake Adelaide. She told us that she was on her way out following the same path we were planning to take. However, after checking the map we set off on Junction Lake Track and she left in a totally different direction.

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The next two hours were spent in relatively flat open fields on unmaintained, uneven and muddy trails. Passing by more lakes and thinking back to the last few days I think Tasmania could be considered marsh land or over 50% water. Keep your eyes peeled because there are a few great photo ops on this section of trail.

Junction Lake Trail eventually re-joined the main trail taking us back past Old Trappers Hut and down the steep section of trail we battled up on day one. Be sure to checkout at the registration booth before you reach the carpark. While we were packing the car to head back to Launceston the French lady arrived saying she followed the wrong trail for over 30 mins but eventually figured it out.

Car Park Area for the Walls of Jerusalem    >

Conclusion

Four days and three nights spent in amazing Australian landscapes. Walls of Jerusalem is a MUST do for any avid hiker. The views are incredible and make every step worthwhile. My highlight is the section I did from Solomons Throne to Mt Moriah. As it was all off trail it allowed me to get back to my roots as a way finder and feel like a real adventurer/mountaineer.

“See you on the trail!” - Gaff